Move Over, Musk– I’ve Been to Mars Already! Pag, Croatia and the Sea-Side Via Ferrata C/D (ish)

So, there’s this cute little country that's becoming more and more of a tourist magnet, tucked somewhere in the corridor of Europe. Some say it’s on the Balkans, a few claim it’s part of the West — but honestly, who cares? We’re talking about Croatia, baby!

It’s small, but mighty: sea, mountains, forests, islands, insane biodiversity, and landscapes so stunning they feel otherworldly — but with gravity, thankfully. And right smack in the middle of this Croatian magic is Pag — a big island chilling between the north and south Adriatic, looking like someone sprinkled it with salt and forgot to add the plants.

Thanks to a wild little wind called Bura (locals know her well), the place is a bit... rock-forward. Bura is a dry, cold, gusty lady who swoops down from Mount Velebit and slaps you right in the face — lovingly, of course. In winter, she chills your bones, but she also clears your mind better than yoga or therapy. No joke.

This same Bura has been blasting salty kisses from land to sea for centuries, carving Pag into this surreal red-and-white lunar landscape where the Adriatic glitters like a glass of cold gin and tonic. And smack dab in the middle of this scene is one of Croatia’s coolest trail routes: Life on Mars. It's actually a trail run event — but even if you’re not into racing, you can totally hike it at your own chill pace. There’s even a 100-meter-long via ferrata section (yes, steel cables and all!) that spices things up just right.

But first, a very important PSA: don’t do this hike in the summer unless you’ve always dreamed of becoming a human raisin. Go in winter, spring, or maybe fall — trust me.

The Trail to Life on Mars – A Rocky Romance

After that little patriotic gush (guilty as charged), let’s talk trail.

To get started, you’ll need to head to the charmingly dusty town of Metajna on Pag. My pro tip? Go the opposite direction of the crowd — head northeast, toward Velebit. Yes, it's a longer walk, but ohhh the views! It's like Earth and Mars had a baby and raised it on a goat farm.

The trail itself is pretty visible — probably stomped down by generations of sheep. It’s not the smoothest stroll; you’ll be zigzagging over rocks like a tipsy ballerina. But hey, it's not hard, just... entertainingly awkward.

The scenery? ABSURDLY gorgeous. You’ll be hiking with constant views of the Velebit mountain range, looking all fierce and dramatic from the seaside. I did the trail in March — Bura was flexing hard that day, the sky was crystal clear, the sun was shining like it had something to prove, and we were bundled up in hats and long sleeves. Basically: hiking bliss.

Life on Mars - Pag, Croatia

Life on Mars - views of Velebit

Along the way, you’ll stumble across weirdly volcanic-looking rocks (hello, fake-Tenerife vibes), scramble up to the secret lookout spot called Teplice (206m above sea level), and get a sweeping view of the sea, the cliffs, and a famous climbing wall called Stogaj. Then it’s downhill to the beach called Slana, and finally... the star of the show: the via ferrata!

Via Ferrata Life on Mars – Short, Spicy, and Totally Splashable

Okay, so here’s the scoop on the via ferrata part: it’s short, not scary, and the only real danger is... falling into the sea. (Honestly, not the worst way to go.)

View from Teplice towards climbing rock Stogaj

beach Slana, Pag

This is the perfect spot to test your strength and fear threshold without risking your entire existence. But don’t underestimate it just because it’s horizontal — it’s surprisingly tricky!

At first, it’s all fun and games: you’re standing upright, clipping in, feeling like a total pro. Then the overhang hits — and suddenly you’re clinging to that cable like it's your long-lost soulmate. Your biceps? Screaming. Your ego? Shaking. By the end, we were all bruised like ripe peaches from hugging that steel rope for dear life.

Beginning of via ferrata Life on Mars, Pag

Now, pro gear tip: besides your basic via ferrata set, bring a panic lanyard (a non-stretchy sling you can hang from to rest). Trust me — it’ll save you when someone slower gets stuck in front of you, emotionally bonding with the cable and refusing to let go. It happens.

Honestly, if you're feeling bold and it’s not crowded, you could even do this without gear — it’s that chill. Just hands, feet, and some good old-fashioned stubbornness.

Official difficulty rating? Some say C/D. Personally, I’d call it a B/C... or just “adorably gnarly.”

Middle of via ferrata

Life on Mars, Pag

End of via ferrata Life on Mars

Finishing the Loop – With a Sunset Dash

Once you conquer the via ferrata, the trail continues along the coast past Rt Sušac and Rt Šmrikovac, until you reach the dreamy Malin Beach, where you can even refill your water bottle (in normal months, that is).

From there, the trail loops back above the via ferrata — great news if you want to skip the steel cable acrobatics next time. You’ll pass by the base of the iconic Stogaj climbing wall and make your way back to Ručica Beach. At this point, the sun had already checked out for us, so we were basically speed-walking in the dark to catch the ferry — because, oh yeah, Monday was lurking.

Bonus Nerd Info

I’ve attached my trusty .gpx track, and if you want it — slide into my DMs and I’ll send it your way. That said, you can probably grab trail maps from the tourist board on Pag. They’ve got all versions: short, long, direct, indirect, Martian, you name it.

So there you have it. A little Mars, a little Bura, a lot of rocks, and a whole lot of love for one of Croatia’s most suprising hiking adventures.

Ready to get salty and sweaty in the best way possible?

See you on Pag. 🚀🏞️