As someone who’s hiked over 100 peaks across Croatia, I can honestly say that exploring Hajdučki and Rožanski Kukovi was the most exciting and beautiful hiking challenge I’ve ever completed. This wild and rugged limestone kingdom hides a cluster of about fifty rocky peaks, each standing around 1,600 meters tall. They’re separated by Lubenovačka vrata (a mountain pass), and the main starting point for both is Veliki Lubenovac — a large basin/meadow in Northern Velebit.
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| Veliki Lubenovac |
Hajdučki and Rožanski Kukovi were declared a strict nature reserve back in 1969. Then in 2017, they, along with Northern Velebit National Park and Paklenica National Park, were added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List as part of the joint heritage of 13 countries under the name “Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe.” This area includes 1,289 hectares of untouched beech forest located in the strict reserve “Hajdučki i Rožanski Kukovi” within the Northern Velebit National Park. What makes these forests exceptional is their natural origin, unique geographical position, age, and size.
The Kukovi also hide some fascinating caves and pits, the most famous being Lukina Jama, discovered in 1992. In 1994, an entirely new species of leech was found there — wild, right?
This reserve is made up of scattered rock formations and jagged peaks, separated by deep sinkholes and chasms. The terrain is formed from young Paleogene limestone breccia and, over time, due to tectonic shifts and weathering, has turned into some of the roughest and most impassable karst landscape in Velebit. You’ll see massive white limestone boulders and some of the deepest caves in the region.
Because it’s such a sensitive and untouched natural area, many trail markings have been intentionally removed to reduce human impact and prevent environmental damage. Even when I hiked there (from May 29–30, 2021), a lot of the trail marks were faded or painted over in gray to make them less visible. Back then, it was still somewhat passable — though I’m afraid that by now, nature may have completely taken over. Honestly, I wouldn't recommend anyone try hiking here today. Besides being officially off-limits, it’s super easy to get lost. Everything looks the same, and every bend seems like it might be the trail — but it usually isn’t.
I was incredibly lucky to explore this area with an experienced guide and will forever treasure the memories of that adventure.
Now, four years later, I’ll try to recall and briefly share some impressions from the trip — and I’ll attach my .gpx track too, so I don’t let this amazing experience fade away from memory.
Day 1 – Hajdučki Kukovi
If the weather is good and dry, you can drive all the way from the mountain lodge "Alan" to Veliki Lubenovac via a 6 km forest gravel road. From the valley, we hiked up toward Lubenovačka vrata, the connection point between Hajdučki and Rožanski Kukovi. From there, the trail to Hajdučki Kukovi goes off to the right, behind a big rock.
The hike itself is a real workout — up and down, winding, zig-zagging through sharp, rocky terrain — until we reached the peak of Golubić (1,650 m). The forest is dense with fir trees, and the nature feels wild and untamed. From the top, you get views of Veliki Kozjak and other peaks, even the Rožanski Kukovi in the distance.
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| Removed markings - Golubić - Hajdučki kukovi |
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| Veliki Kozjak as seen from Golubić |
We then followed the ridge (which is not really a trail, more like pure rock scrambling) heading southeast toward Hajdučki Kuk (1,649 m), before making a circular route back down to Veliki Lubenovac.
Day 2 – Rožanski Kukovi
We spent the night at Kugina Kuća for the comfort of having a roof over our heads, and the next morning we were back early at Veliki Lubenovac. Once again, it was a steep hike to Lubenovačka vrata, but this time we went straight ahead toward Rožanski Kukovi.
Our main goal was to do as much hiking over the rocks as possible, with Rossijeva Koliba as our final destination. Rožanski Kukovi feel gentler than Hajdučki — the rocks are more rounded and polished, while Hajdučki is full of sharp, dramatic spikes.
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| Rožanski kukovi |
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| Rožanski kukovi |
As we moved through this stone kingdom, it hit me that this is a forbidden beauty — maybe we shouldn’t even be here… but how can any true hiker ignore this kind of call?
We passed under Vratarski Kuk (1,676 m) and eventually reached Rossijevo Sklonište (Rossijeva Shelter) on the Premužić Trail. From there, we continued south toward Krajačev Kuk (1,659 m), then made our way back in a loop to Veliki Lubenovac.
If you're a nature lover and experienced hiker, this place will leave you speechless — just don’t go unless you’re with a certified guide and fully prepared. This is a raw, primal world, and it deserves respect.
Here you can look at my .gpx trail recorded for that hikes.
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