Azores Adventure: Chasing Waterfalls, Volcanoes, and Silence
Azores – My Green Escape Into the Atlantic
Introduction: Falling in Love with the Azores
Back in mid-September last year, I spent 8 soul-filling days exploring the Azores — a group of European islands hugging the Atlantic Ocean, about 1,500 km from mainland Portugal. I based myself on the main island, São Miguel, and also hopped on a small plane to Flores and its little volcanic brother, Corvo — the westernmost points of Europe.
Monsteras, alocasias, and rubber trees grow here like regular weeds, and in giant sizes. You’ll find banana and pineapple plantations too. If you ever try a freshly cut Azorean pineapple, brace yourself — it’s like tasting vanilla, coconut, and mango wrapped into sweet, juicy sunshine.
Sure, invasive ginger plants are kind of taking over, but it’s still a paradise. Hydrangeas were already past their blooming peak in September, but I still found a few vibrant blue ones holding on.
Rain? Yes. Moisture? Loads. But most of the showers hit overnight or passed quickly during the day. I barely noticed — I was too enchanted.
Part One: São Miguel — The Island of Everything
Renting a Car = Freedom
There’s no way around it: renting a car on São Miguel is non-negotiable. It’s the only way to move freely, see more, and not miss out. I stayed in an Airbnb in Ponta Delgada — mostly for grocery access — and used it as a base. From there, I road-tripped around the whole island: west, north, east, and south.
Besides Ponta Delgada, I also visited Ribeira Grande, Furnas, Vila Franca do Campo, and Sete Cidades. I did loads of hiking, some of it tough because of the humidity and sunlight reflecting off the ocean. Totally worth it though.
West São Miguel: That Insta-Famous Side
I started early (around 8 a.m.) and was shocked to see how many other tourists had the same idea. Parking was already full! But the trails were never overcrowded — the further you walk, the more peaceful it gets.
First stop: Miradouro da Grota do Inferno — the most photographed spot in the Azores. I’d seen so many pics before that when I got there, it felt like déjà vu. No wow moment. Just... expected. Instagram overload is real, folks.
But from that same parking lot, there’s a beautiful hiking loop called Serra Devassa — lush, quiet, and filled with small crater lakes and ocean views. I did about 7 km in 2 hours.
Later that day, my overexcited brain said, “Hey, why not another hike?” So I tackled the full loop around the Blue and Green Lakes of Sete Cidades. I walked past the spooky ruins of Hotel Vista do Rei, through a dreamy hydrangea-lined path, ocean on the left, lakes and town on the right. At some point, I realized — I was literally walking on the rim of an ancient volcano. Wild.
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| Miraduro da Grota do Inferno |
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| Serra Devassa trail |
Here you can look out my .gpx trails for that hikes:
Northeastern São Miguel: Alone with Lilies and Hibiscus
This part was refreshingly empty of tourists. I hiked a trail leading to Salto da Farinha waterfall and continued toward the Poco Azul (Blue Well) — a magical emerald spring. The air was thick and humid, and I was dripping with sweat, but the scenery made up for it. Hibiscus trees were enormous, and lilies grew like weeds.
The waterfall didn’t have much water, but Poco Azul looked like the birthplace of all life. Round trip: 6 km in about 2 hours.
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| Poco Azul |
Salto Da Farinha to Poco Azul hike
Southern São Miguel: Waterfalls & Crowds
Next up: Salto do Prego, a popular waterfall with a scenic trail that passes through the abandoned village of Sanguinho. Sounds dreamy, right? It was... until I got to the falls. Total chaos. Crowds of people literally queuing to swim in the pool beneath the falls. No space, no peace. I didn’t even take a photo — I just left.
I really think they should ban swimming there and put a ranger on-site to control the impact.
Sanguinho itself was kind of cute, though. One guy was selling weed tea, and others were tending to banana fields. A weirdly perfect end to the hike.
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I also have saved. gpx trail for this loop:
Part Two: Flores & Corvo — The Wild Side
Flores = Pure Nature Therapy
This is where my heart exploded. After a short but expensive flight (nearly the same price as my flight from Zagreb!), I finally arrived on Flores, where everything is raw, quiet, and untouched.
I stayed in Fajã Grande, the last village before the ocean swallows the land. Book early — seriously, 6 months ahead. This place is tiny: two fast-food joints, a grocery store with almost nothing, and sunsets to cry for.
And that’s the point. You don’t come here for cocktails or comfort. You come here to feel alive.
Hike 1: Cascata da Ribeira do Ferreiro (aka The Epic One)
As soon as I dropped my bag, I hit the trail. I walked from Fajã Grande to Cascata da Ribeira do Ferreiro and Cascata da Ribeira Grande, then looped back via Fajazinha along the ocean cliffs.
The view of Ribeira do Ferreiro hit me like a punch to the soul. Crystal-clear waterfalls, ducks swimming in the lake below, and massive alocasia leaves hugging the trail. I literally thanked God for kicking us out of Eden — because THIS felt like the real thing.
If you go in the afternoon, the sun lights up the waterfalls perfectly for photos. I’ll never forget that feeling.
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| Cascata da Riberia do Ferreiro |
Here you can see for yourself this loop that I hiked:
Cascata da Ribeira do Ferreiro hike
Hike 2: Crater Hike on Corvo Island
You can only reach Corvo from Flores by speedboat (yes, those bouncy RIB boats with monster engines). The trip itself is an adventure — wave-jumping, cave-diving, and (maybe) whale-spotting. We didn’t see whales, but it was still a thrill.
On Corvo, I grabbed a shared van up to the crater and hiked the loop around it, returning on foot to the harbor. The trail was unreal — cows grazing in the crater, a lost sheep baaing from a cliff, and even some animal skeletons (nature is metal). The stone fences around the crater made me wonder — were the shepherds bored or just territorial?
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| Corvo crater |
You can also look at my Corvo hike here:
Final Thoughts: A Return to Simplicity
São Miguel is bigger and more tourist-oriented — though still relaxed by normal standards. But Flores and Corvo? Time slows down. People greet you. They smile. It reminded me of childhood, when neighbors used to chat on the street.
I truly hope the Azores stay like this: raw, wild, and low-key. Infrastructure can't handle mass tourism, and I’m afraid more would ruin the magic.
This trip fed me — not just physically, but emotionally and spiritually. Every flower, fruit, smell, and sight expanded my awareness. I swam in the Atlantic for the first time, tasted pineapple straight from the plant, and hiked along ancient volcanic craters.
I’ll never be the same — and I don’t want to be.
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| Pineapple plantation in Ponta Delgada (Sao Miguel) |
I'm also sharing my google drive access where you can download all of the hikes mentioned above.
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