Cjajnik/Lärchenturm (1.965m) - via ferrata C/D

This was probably the toughest via ferrata I’ve ever done in Slovenia. I’ve tackled Spodnji Plot and Mučevo too, and sure, they’re also beastly, but they’re more like sporty ferratas, and somehow they just don’t compare to this one. Climbing Cjajnik is a true adrenaline challenge on the Karawanks ridge

To be honest, this was also the most interesting via ferrata I’ve tried—mainly because, first of all, it was crafted by Austrians (they don’t mess around), and second, it has every possible feature you can imagine (from "A" to "D" difficulty). You even have to hike for about an hour over brutal scree slopes just to reach the start of the ferrata. The whole landscape around you is nothing but rock and loose gravel—so monotonous that we actually missed the official start and ended up free-climbing the first 50–100 meters like absolute lunatics.

Walking through scree slope before entering via ferrata

The moment you finally touch that steel cable, the climbing begins—straight up, totally exposed, and it never lets up. Just when you think you’ve squeezed out your last drop of strength, there’s a final vertical wall right under the tower waiting to finish you off. And the best part? You still have to get back down somehow, and you’ve no idea what else is lurking ahead.

A Technically Demanding Climb—Definitely Only for Experienced Climbers

You start this via ferrata from Austria. Parking is at the Koschutahaus mountain hut, and from there, the trail first winds through the forest and up the scree to the base of the climb. The goal is Cjajnik—a rocky little summit that looks cute from far away but is basically one giant pointy rock you have to scramble up.

It’s recommended to do the route north to south, because trust me—you don’t want to meet people coming the opposite way when you’re clinging to a sheer cliff.

Climbing up

Never ending vertical climbs

This is the kind of ferrata that demands serious arm power, because you’re almost always going straight up. The cables are solid, and there are plenty of iron rungs and pegs to help. There’s a bit of horizontal traversing, but most of the time, you’re basically hugging vertical rock faces.

When you finally drag yourself up to the tower of Cjajnik, you get two choices: go straight up the “D” section (super hard) or detour around via the “C” section (allegedly easier). Since I was already wiped out, I picked the “easier” route—big mistake. It was still vertical, and somehow felt endless. Later, looking back, that “D” section probably wouldn’t have been that bad—there were loads of rungs.

The guys who did the direct route said it was brutal because gravity kept yanking them off the wall. Right near the summit, thick clouds rolled in, so I couldn’t see where the cable led. Very symbolic: there’s a giant piton with a carabiner at the top, and barely space for two people to stand.

Detail in the clouds

The summit at last

From Savage Rock Walls to Gentle Grassy Slopes

But of course, you’re not done yet. You have to descend the southern side, down a smooth rock face so slick you’ll wish you’d packed climbing shoes. Finally, after tiptoeing down to the Košuta ridge, you get a view of Cjajnik behind you—looking both terrifying and impressive. (Did I really climb that??)

Then you trudge along the ridge trail, right on the border of Austria and Slovenia, heading toward Košutnikov Turn. As if on cue, more clouds rolled in and we spent most of the ridge walk in an eerie gray fog. Some sections here are also secured with cables, just to keep things spicy.

View of Cjajnik from Košuta ridge

Ridge on Slovenian side of Košuta 

It’s Still Not Over

When you finally arrive below Košutnikov Turn, surprise! Another ferrata to get back down. So much for the gentle grassy slopes—here comes more crumbly rock.

There’s a 15-meter hanging bridge over a bottomless abyss. You can skip it and take the “via normale” path down instead—but honestly, the bridge is too cool to miss. It wobbles just enough to make you laugh nervously. After the bridge, there’s a final steep descent, and then you can finally cruise down the scree like you’re skiing, back into the woods and all the way to where you started—Koschutahaus.

Hanging bridge for the epic end of via ferrata 

Overall Impression:

An unforgettable adventure—two tough via ferratas, endless climbing and descending, ridge traversing, an epic hanging bridge, and some seriously sketchy scree. Absolutely worth every drop of sweat.

Even though the internet is already full of route descriptions and trail guides, I’m still attaching my GPX track—just to add one more breadcrumb to the wilderness of the web.