Why Triglav (2.864m) is Not Your Average Sunday Hike

Do I really need to tell you something about Triglav that literally everyone doesn’t already know?

It’s the highest peak in Slovenia and, not surprisingly, number one in popularity there. Even by Slovenian standards, every route up is classified as seriously demanding. The most common approaches are from the Krma valley, Kot valley, and Rudno polje. As for the routes from Vrata valley—nope, I’m not even going to think about them.

Out of the Kot valley

Lately, I keep seeing loads of private “guides” or tour groups who charge a small fortune to lead people up—those who are mainly after bragging rights, a bit of altitude achievement, and of course some shiny new Instagram profile pics—despite never having set foot even on Sljeme.

Personally, Triglav was always a dream of mine, though I had massive doubts about whether I could pull it off. This, even though I’d finished general mountaineering school, been a member of a hiking club, and already had 100+ peaks under my boots in both Croatia and Slovenia.

This is a physically and technically challenging climb. The best time to go is July or August, and it’s recommended to split it over two days. Hiking boots and a helmet are absolutely mandatory. You’ll also need a via ferrata set for the final 400-meter ascent from Kredarica to the summit. Bring sunscreen, lots of water, sugar, salt, and a windbreaker—because the wind always blows up there. I lugged a 40-liter backpack stuffed with 6 liters of water, since you can’t refill anywhere on the mountain except at the hut (and that’s rainwater they sell you for €5 per liter!).

This is no tourist stroll—some people start showing mild symptoms of altitude sickness even here. You can never be too careful: one mistake in the mountains can be your last.

But let’s say something cheerful about Triglav:

- It sits in Slovenia’s one and only national park of the same name.
- They say if you’re a true Slovenian, you have to climb it at least once in your life (so…can I apply for citizenship now?).
- Every Slovenian schoolkid must know that Triglav is 2,864 meters above sea level—it’s basically a law.
- The name comes from a mythical three-headed deity.
- Triglav is literally the national symbol—you’ll find it on the Slovenian flag.

My Two-Day Love-Hate Affair with Triglav

Here’s a quick description of a beautiful two-day circular route. Be warned: the first day is pretty hardcore because of the huge elevation gain, but the second day is pure joy—unless you mind the crowds on the ridge from Kredarica (which you can avoid by starting at dawn with a headlamp). 

Day 1 – Kot Valley (950 m) – čez Pekel – Valentin Stanič Hut below Triglav (2,332 m)

On the first day, you gain 1,376 vertical meters in about 4 hours of hiking. The trail starts with a long, steady climb through the forest. After the trees, it gets steeper, and you’ll see iron spikes set in the rock to help you (though in dry weather, you probably won’t need them). I recommend starting this way because it’s way less crowded. We were literally the only ones on the trail.

The climb is gorgeous—views of Rjavina and Vrbanova Špica open up all around you. It’s a physically demanding, slow slog, but when we finally reached the hut, we still had part of the afternoon to recover and rest for the next (much tougher) day.

View of Rjavina in front of Valentin Stanič hut

Valentin Stanič Hut below Triglav

Day 2 – Valentin Stanič Hut (2,332 m) – Triglav Hut at Kredarica (2,515 m) – Triglav Summit (2,864 m) – Koča na Doliču (2,151 m) – Velska Valley – Vodnikov Hut at Velo Polje (1,817 m) – Bohinj Saddle (1,979 m) – Kovinarska Hut in Krma Valley (870 m)

At first light, we headed towards Kredarica—took us about an hour. We did all our “necessary business” here (because we wouldn’t be coming back), strapped on our via ferrata sets, and aimed for the summit.

Oh boy—crowds everywhere. Constantly stepping aside for people descending, queuing up, inching along at a snail’s pace…one step forward, two steps back. The entire path to the top is an exposed, narrow, rocky ridge, but it’s well protected.

We reached the summit in about 1 hour 50 minutes. The view was spectacular—clouds right over our shoulders, wind blasting, absolutely mandatory jacket conditions.

View towards Kredarica

Little Triglav

After basking in that satisfaction, we had to stay focused for the long, long descent—first over the ridge near Triglav’s shoulder, then scree all the way down to Koča na Doliču, where we finally had lunch. From there, it gets easier—contouring along the same elevation into Velska Valley, where the lactose-tolerant can snack on local mountain cheese and drink sour milk. I just stood there admiring the cows grazing.

At Vodnikov Hut, we snagged the last slices of cake they had left. This was about the point where my watch battery died, so that was the end of my .gpx track. Nearby is also the turnoff for Planika—probably one of the least demanding approaches to Triglav (via Krma and Planika Hut to the top).

Night fell, and the final stretch felt endless—like some sort of never-ending ordeal. Everyone was so tired that nobody even talked anymore. We all probably had the same thought looping in our heads: Just let me get to the car so I can finally take off these heavy damn boots.

In the end, here’s my partial .gpx track (up to the moment my watch decided to give up on life).